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heddles for Toijalan (Toika) table loom

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Hi,

I recently acquired a Toijalan Kaidetehdas 4 shaft table loom. The
original owner purchased it around 1988. I know that the company name
changed to Toika in 1987. It appears to be the predecessor of the Toika
Leena table loom. It has string heddles and I would like to switch to
Texsolv. I measured them on the loom and they were 7". The current
Leena loom uses 8 5/8". I don't know if the string heddles might have
shrunk with age but once I washed them, I could see that they were a bit
stretchy. My loom has a shorter depth than the current Leena but the
height is the same. I am looking for advice on choosing the Texsolv
heddle size. Should I buy 7", 8", or 8 5/8"? Does anyone have one of these looms?

 

Thanks,

Renee


20+ CM TIE UP!

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Hello to all. I am starting a new thread in behalf of a member seeking information on the "20+ " tie up system. Since the original request was posted deep to a very early thread. Kristin Duckworth would appreciate any information to replicate this unique tie up which,as I understand will bring the tie up to the front of the loom, thus bringing great ease to the weaver, hence adding 20+ years to a weavers enjoyment! I'm sure some photo's would help also. Very interesting! Frank.

Toika Tabby Tie-up -- finding balance for treadles

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Hello Toika friends!  I am having trouble balancing my tie-up for a 150cm Liisa with an 8 inch tabby warp.  I have 4 shafts and 6 treadles on the loom.  I hooked up my tabby ties to the outer treadles (1/3 and 2/4) and they are correct.  At first I only tied up the two outer treadles to the 4 harnesses.  When the locking pins were removed, the harness and treadles moved and no decent shed formed.  My notes from Barbara Elkin at Webs recommend tying up six treadles even for a tabby weave but do not specify upper/lower lamm tie-ups for the inner four treadles which will not be used for the tabby pattern.  I have six treadles on the loom now and locking pins ready to go.  Any suggestions?  Also, does the width of the warp have any effect on the balance of the loom or is that a red herring?

Countermarch heddle length and lamm length

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There is a question in the chat forum about the number of shafts one can have on a countermarch loom.  This came from a comment from Madelyn van der Hoogt in a new e publication from Handwoven magazine.  The comment she made is from her experience with her Glimakra Standard looms, which she purchased in the 80s.   I believe that she has
heddles which are too long and that can cause complications in the tie-ups.   One should also take note of falling shafts, which also has a bearing on the subject Madelyn was referring to.  These two issues make a big difference on how many shafts one can tie up on a countermarch loom.   Since countermarch tie-ups are something that I have studied a long time, I am learning some of the things which were done in the past with Glimakra countermarch looms. 

During the early years of countermarch looms coming to the US, hand tied heddles were used.  Technically, one can tie heddles whatever length you would like, but the Glimakra looms came with heddles which were 10 1/2 inches long.  This is the same length of the heddles on most floor looms at that time, including Leclerc looms, which were very common then.  A 10 1/2 inch heddle will give one a good size shed, at least 4 inches at the shafts.  But, when Texsolv heddles came in about 1980, someone recommended using longer heddles and the distributor started to send longer heddles with the looms. The factory recommended 11 inch heddles.  This size gives one a very large shed.  In fact, it is often easier to weave if you do not have the maximum shed size that 11 inch heddles can give you.

If you have had problems with your countermarch tie-up, especially if you are weaving with more than 8 shafts, measure the length of your heddles.  If you have heddles longer than 11 inches, part of your problem is that your heddles are longer than is recommended. 

It is also helpful to know about a change which was made to the lower lamms of countermarch looms during the early 80s.  If you have an older loom from the 70s which has the lower lamms the same length as the upper lamms, you will find that the shafts will drop when the locking pins are taken out.  This causes the treadles to rise and may cause lamms to touch the treadles.  You can either upgrade your loom with heavier, longer lower lamms, or you can weight the lower lamms.  I describe this on page 26 of my book, Tying up the Countermarch Loom. 

If anyone is having problems with their tie-up, let me know.  When one has a loom which is out of date or has heddles or other parts which have been changed, you have a loom which may not be performing at it's best.

Joanne

 

Toika Section Warp Beam

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I have a Toika Eeva, computer controlled, 24 shaft loom.  It has a double beam and a sectional warp beam.  Can anyone point me to a utube or equivalent to show me how to use the sectional warp beam?  I have some pictures but it's not really clear.

Varpa Finlandia Assembly Instructions

Welcome to the TOIKA and Varpa loom group

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Having had both Toika and Varpa looms and as both manufacturers are similar I thought it might be interesting to open a group.  There are many resources out there for Glimakra looms but not much in the way of TOIKA or Varpa.  Varpappu looms are not longer available in the USA unless purchased used, I am not sure if the company still exists overseas.  Toika and Varpa looms share the characteristics of being made from light birch which has a clear varnish coat,  this helps maintain the blonde look of the wood.  The wood feels more dense and is much heavier than the pine of the Glimakra.  The Toika/Varpa looms also use some metal hardware in addition to using peg construction.  The Toika/Varpa looms are more compact than the Glimakra yet provide the same generous weave widths.  That is not to say any of these traits make it more or less of a loom than the Glimakra, they are just different.

TOIKA now manufactures a computerized version of their Lisa and Eeva looms which allows computer control of 16 or 24 harness.  This computer unit can be added to an existing TOIKA loom and may be added to other Swedish style looms with some minor modification.

WEBS (yarn.com) and the owners the Elkins are most helpful if you wish to obtain more information regarding Toika looms and equipment.  The Mannings of PA also sell TOIKA.  Toika manufactures a variety of weaving equipment and supplemental accessories.  I myself own some of their shuttles and temples, the parts of these temples are interchangeable for multiple weave widths which I find usefull.  The loom I currently own is the 120cm Eeva, overhead beater, 8 shafts, 10 treadles, worm gear warp advance,  It not only is aesthetically pleasing but heavy, durable and comfortable to use.  

Opportunity and/or dilemna

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Hello lovely group members. I finally figured out how to make a new topic. So, I have the opportunity to get a 20 shaft Oxaback with loads of goodies (2 warp beams-1 sectional, fly shuttle,  tons of texsolv and heddles, electric bobbin winder and on and on) for a reasonable, but not cheap, price. In order to do so, I will have to sell my varpas. I do love them, but realize that adding so many shafts to them is not really a reasonable option. I love fine threads and complex patterns, and have been thinking about adding a draw attachment to one of my looms. But even if I don't get around to that, the Oxaback opens up a world of possiblities. What would you do? I guess I've already decided to go for it, but just want folks to confirm my decision and share in my excitement!

 

Shawn


Question about shafts - 1st time using a CM

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I've never owned a CM and just bought an  Eeva which was a shop floor model so it already had tie ups made.  It is an 8 shaft loom but for my first project on this loom I'm only going to use 4 shafts.  Do I need to take the other 4 shafts that I won't be using off and disconnect the lamms and the treadles associated with those other 4?  Thanks for your help!

Vavstuga tie-up for older Liisa

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Hello
I need to change my loom over to texsolv and have been searching across the internet and came across the Vavstuga tie-up system. Does anyone have any opinions on it? Does it make things easier or should I go through Webs and get the Toika tie-up kit? Thanks

Toika Terhi - Metal Beams & Aprons

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I notice that the Toika Terhi rug loom has metal warp and cloth beams.  Can anyone tell me if these metal beams accept aprons and if so how they are attached to the metal beams?   A picture would be good as the Toika website has very few close-up pictures of their looms. If the tendency is not to use aprons with the Terhi please explain why.

 

Weft Wave & Fly Shuttles

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If “waving” the weft is important before beating what happens when you use a fly shuttle?

Toika drawloom

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I have just puchased an older Toika loom that is a 30 shaft drawloom. It has the usual 8 shaft countermach set up at the front, and an extra long frame (2.7 metres). The loom's instruction booklet gives assembly information for a normal Toika loom, but does not include any instructions for the drawloom attachments. I imagine I will figure it out by trial and error, but as this is my first encounter with an actual drawloom, I am wondering if anyone knows of any other Toika drawloom, and could perhaps help out with a photo of the set up. I am, of course, very excited about this loom's possibilities and can't wait to get it assembled. I have to clear a lot of space first!

My drawloom!

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I have my home built drawloom up and running!   Here are some pictures of the loom and the weaving.   Since it was my first warp, I used a strong 5/2 cotton rather than linen, but linen is my eventual goal.   I also put on a short (for a drawloom) warp of 7 yards.   For this warp I'm just going to play with it and try out things.   So far I've only tried the shaft draw system since I only added the single unit draw system over the weekend.   I need to design a pattern and then try it.

My plan is to keep this set up as a draw loom and tie new warps onto the old warps to avoid the whole setup piece of the work, which is considerable.    I also want to add a lashes system, and I want them all to work at the same time.   I haven't figured out how that third part (the lashes) will coexist with the rest yet, but I will.

The drawloom was added to my Varpapuu.   I built everything, including the 8 harness damask pulleys and the lingos.

Along the way I discovered a lot of resources for doing this inexpensively, but I haven't yet added up the total cost.   I do know the cost if purchased would be around $3000.

 

Finlandia -- I need Help

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Hello New Friends! I find myself the surprised (happy) owner of a loom. This baby has been sitting in a neglected basement for who knows how long. I have begun de-mildewing her and getting things cleaned up but... I think there are parts missing. Where can I get new parts that will work with this loom?

Framing pegs definitely missing, (but I think I can re-create those maybe -- will making some chunks of wood fit in the hole and look pretty be enough?)

the front brake (that metal bar thing) is missing, also the side handle for the warp beam. Where can I look to replace those? 

It's still in pieces, but looks like it has 4 shafts and 4 treaddles.... oh, and are the heddles supposed to be wire? I read that countermarch use string heddles, but I also read that countermarch have top mounted swinging beaters, and the Finlandia appears to be a bottom mounted beater. Do I need new heddles for it?

The reeds are rusted (what's a good reed to get if I can't un-rust them?),

and the tie-cords look doubtful (do I have to get linen?),

and although I refuse to be scared by the "countermarch is scary" stuff I've been reading online.... I do need some help. Sixteen years ago I had limited access to mostly table looms so my confidence is a bit hampered by my ignorance. 

Right now I'm focused on getting it put together (restored, if you will) but I shall soon have oodles of questions on actually using it. Please help me out. I don't even know what sort of information I don't know yet. Smile


tie up kit?

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I am setting up an OLD toika liisa - I think - and was wondering if I could use this tie up kit? 

http://www.yarn.com/loom-parts-tie-ups/t...

What is the recomended tie up? Are there instructions for the liisa?  Or are they general Toika instructions? Thanks! This is my first countermarche loom. 

tie up kit?

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I am setting up an OLD toika liisa - I think - and was wondering if I could use this tie up kit? 

http://www.yarn.com/loom-parts-tie-ups/t...

What is the recomended tie up? Are there instructions for the liisa?  Or are they general Toika instructions? Thanks! This is my first countermarche loom. 

selling my loom

Replacing Loom Aprons with Cord

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I am restoring a 40+ year old Toika Liisa and was wondering if anyone has removed the cloth aprons and replaced them with heavy beam cord by drilling holes into the beams.  If so how many cords did you install and how far apart are they?

Thanks for any advice!

Restored Toika

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Just finished a complete restoration of a 1970’s era 50” Toika Liisa, 10 shaft/12 treadle countermarch loom. After sanding and refinishing it with Danish Oil and waxing her with Howard’s she is gleaming. Replaced every bit of cordage/heddles with brand new texsolv along with new rubber loom feet, shaft holders and pins. Also replaced the worn aprons with brand new heavy texsolv beam cord.  Lovely to see the old loom restored to good weaving health again.

Restored Toika

 

 

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